Table of Contents
Numerous plants that start with E are not just special but rare. They have eye-catching features and scents but most of all, they are easy to grow, care for and maintain.
Most of these plants might seem strange to you but as you continue to read, you will have more clarity about them and make your pick based on your preference.
We have also compiled other relevant things that you need to know about any of these plants.
Different Kinds Of Houseplants That Start With E
Below are the different kinds of houseplants that start with the letter E. They are as follows
1. European Fan Palm Tree
Also known as Mediterranean Fan Palm or Chamaerops humilis. Originated from the Mediterranean region of Southwestern Europe. This species, unlike other palm trees, is easy to grow.
It has a shrubby palm which can reach up to about 4 ft (1.2 m) tall indoors. As the plant matures, it will grow into multiple rough, thick trunks.
Additionally, it has fine-textured fronds that grow in a rounded fan of 10-20 leaflets that can reach up to 24 in (60 cm) wide. The leaflets of this palm tree have different colours ranging from silvery green to blue-green which can naturally split as they mature.
This is what makes it the perfect stunning plant with an accent for your home, office and environment. It’s the ability to last for years regardless of how slow-growing it can be.
European Fan Palm Tree Care Tips
Caring for your European fan palm tree is easy, especially when you provide the essential requirements for the healthy growth of the plant.
A. Light Requirements
Your European fan palm trees will thrive best when you place them in a spot with plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. It needs a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, avoid keeping it beyond the stated time to avoid getting the leaves burnt or scorched.
To add more light, you can get an indoor grow light as it works beautifully. Add the pot a quarter-turn every week to expose each side to sunlight.
B. Water Requirements
Water your plant regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during spring and summer. Allow the top 2 in (5cm) of the soil to dry out between waterings.
Palms are sensitive to chlorine, fluoride, and other chemicals often found in tap water, as well as the salt in softened water. Use only distilled or filtered water to avoid the build-up of chemicals. Reduce watering during winter when growth slows down because of lower light levels.
When watering, avoid getting the base of the palm wet to prevent root rot. Use a container with drainage holes and fast-draining potting mix to prevent soggy soil.
Furthermore, if you are accurate on the amount of water needed, then you should consider allowing the soil to dry off rather than to be wet.
C. Soil Mix
For your suitable soil mix, mix 2 parts peat moss-based potting mix and 1 part sharp sand. You must repot your plant and soil once every 3 years to replenish the nutrients.
D. Humidity & Temperature
The average room humidity for your plant must be around 40%. However, if the air is dry in winter as the plant can wilt, you can use a cool-mist room humidifier or you can keep the plant on a pebble tray.
Furthermore, the average temperature of the room must be 70-80°F/21-27°C during the day while 50-60°F/10-16°C at night.
E. Fertilizer
Feed your plant with the right amount of fertilizer that’s specially made for palms that must contain micronutrients monthly during the spring and summer. Avoid feeding the plant with fertilizer in fall and winter.
F. Repotting
Do well to repot your plant only when considered necessary which is usually every 3 years.
European fan palms have fragile roots, so try not to disturb them while repotting. Keep the base of the palm at the same level it was before as the trunk is prone to rotting if it is kept wet.
Furthermore, the roots of the plant tend to grow deep so try to replant in a deep pot. Use a drainage pot with holes so that the palm can be watered thoroughly.
Once the plant reaches the size you want, you can decide to top-dress the plant instead of replacing the top couple of inches of potting mix.
G. Propagation
To propagate a plant, sow seeds in spring, barely covering the seeds with soil. Keep them warm around 75-80°F/24-27°C and moist.
After planting your seeds, it can take several weeks to germinate.
H. Common Problems Of European Fan Palm Tree
Below are the common problems that can occur if this plant. They include
A. Brown Leaf Tips
Brown leaf tips are problems that develop when the soil is dry. To prevent that from dry air or an accumulation of fluoride or chlorine from tap water.
B. Yellow Streaks
Yellow streaks on leaflets are caused by a shortage of magnesium or potassium. So do well to use a fertilizer specially made for palms that include micronutrients. You can quickly revive your houseplant with a spray of micronutrient fertilizer. Adding a pinch of Epsom salts to the water will give it a boost of magnesium.
C. Pests
The most peaty potting mixes that are kept moist may attract fungus gnats. You can get rid of the pests by allowing the surface of the soil to dry out.
Another pest is the spider mites which are also attracted by dry indoor plants. To detect the presence of this pest usually when you first see a fine webbing between stems and palm fronds. To treat the infestations
You’ll first notice fine webbing between stems and palm fronds. Treat the infestation right away.
2. Elephant’s Ear
Also known as Alocasia x amazonica, African Mask and Polly Plant. Originated from Tropical Asia with a height of up to 2 ft (60 cm). It’s an exotic house plant with striking foliage.
It has thick, upright stems that carry arrow-shaped leaves with scalloped edges. Bold silver-green veins make a dramatic pattern on glossy, dark-green leaves.
Alocasias grow from rhizomes, which can be divided in spring for more plants. Each rhizome produces several leaves that grow to 1 ft (30) long, making Elephant’s Ear a sassy, new accent for your home. Put it on a pedestal stand to show it off.
Elephant’s Ear Care Tips
Below are the necessary needs of your plant. They include
A. Light Requirements
It thrives in bright light and indirect sunlight. So avoid keeping it at a spot with direct sunlight exposure as it can damage the plant.
B. Water Requirements
Keep soil moist in spring and fall when the plant is actively growing and water sparingly in winter as it will allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings.
Furthermore, during the winter, you must allow your plant to rest from all the feeding and watering.
However, it doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t be watering at all but it should be at a minimum.
C. Soil Mix
Grow your plant on a peat moss-based mix, such as an African violet potting mix. It must be in a pot with drainage holes.
D. Humidity & Temperature
To grow this plant, the humidity level must be 50% or higher. Any air lower than this percentage will only cause your plant to start losing leaves dropping.
You can increase the humidity level of your room by using a cool-mist room humidifier or provide plenty of humidity with a pebble tray.
Furthermore, the average temperature level of the room must be between 65-75°F/18-24°C. Keeping at a place with lesser temperature will affect your plant’s productivity.
E. Fertilizer
Feed your elephant’s ear every 2 weeks in spring during fall with a balance such as 10-10-10 NPK water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half. Avoid feeding the plant during the winter as the plant will be dormant.
F. Repotting
Repot the plant during the spring when necessary.
Start with the use of a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil, which can lead to root rot.
G. Propagation
The best form of propagating this plant is through division.
Just divide the rhizomes and pot into separate containers. Keep the top surface of the rhizome above the soil line so that the growing stems don’t rot at the soil level.
H. Common Problems Of Elephant’s Ear
Below are the problems. They are as follows:
A. Pest
The most common pest that can infest your plant is red spider mites. This is as a result of the low humidity level.
However, to get rid of this pest, you need to make more room for a humidifier and also, frequent misting of the leaves will be helpful.
3. English Ivy Plant
Also known as the Hedera helix. Originating from Europe and it grows tall, it will climb as high as it is allowed to.
English Ivy is an elegant accent plant with small-leaved ivies blended beautifully in a dish garden, adding texture to a variety of tropical plants.
Although it is commonly grown as a hanging plant indoors, its aerial roots can easily be trained to be adventurous, training ivy on a topiary.
Furthermore, it is toxic and very poisonous if eaten and further causes some skin irritation. So while on this plant, ensure that you wear gloves and keep them away from children, cats and dogs.
English Ivy Plant Care Tips
English ivy is a vigorous grower when it gets the light and moisture it wants. For more essential needs, they are as follows
A. Light Requirements
Keep the plant in a place with bright, indirect sunlight and avoid exposing it to direct sun.
However, if a variegated variety of the plant changes to mostly green, then, it is a clear indication that it isn’t receiving enough light.
B. Water Requirements
Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy during the spring and fall seasons. However, it is important to plant your elephant’s ear plant in a pot with drainage holes to avoid the root getting rot as a result of overwatering.
Furthermore, reduce the amount of water in winter as the growth rate of the plant will be slower.
C. Soil Mix
Grow your plant in a peat moss-based mix with added perlite or vermiculite for good drainage. A perfect example is the African violet potting mix.
D. Humidity & Temperature
Ensure that the average humidity level of the room must be 40% or higher around the plant.
However, you can raise the humidity by misting it with water or standing English ivy on a tray of wet pebbles. It is quite effective.
Furthermore, the humidity level of the room can drop drastically in the winter. So, if your home gets too dry, use a cool-mist room humidifier.
Additionally, the cool to average room temperatures for your elephant’s ear plant must be 50-75°F/10-24°C year-round.
E. Fertilizer
Feed your plant with the right amount of fertilizer that is suitable monthly in spring and fall. However, the suitable fertilizer will be a high-nitrogen water-soluble fertilizer.
F. Repotting
You’ll want to repot your plant in spring every year. This will help to give the plant a much larger space in a pot to grow and renew its freshen nutrients.
G. Propagation
You should propagate your plant through stem tip cuttings. It is best done during the spring season.
You should take 3-4 in (8-10 cm) stem cuttings in spring and root them in moist soil or water.
H. Common Problems Of English Ivy Plant
Below are the common problems that can affect your plant. They include
A. Dry, Crispy Leaves
Your plant might experience some dry, crispy leaves which are a result of a lack of humidity in the room or environment where your plant is kept.
To remedy this problem, you need to keep your plant in a cool place with moist air and also evenly moist soil. Ensure that your plant is protected from drafts or heating vents.
Always mist your plant as it will help to keep the leaves from drying out.
B. Wilted Leaves
This is caused by the overwatering of your plant which can further lead to the root of your plant rotting if no precaution is taken.
So to avoid your soil from drying off, you should use a pot or container with drainage holes. It will help to exit the water away from the soil when it is overfed.
C. Faded Foliage
Placing your plant at a location where there is direct sunlight will cause your plant variegated beautiful colours to fade away. So avoid it at all costs.
Always prune the stems of your variegated plant that turns all green for new growth.
4. Epipremnum Aureum
Epipremnum aureum is a species in the arum family Araceae, native to Moorea in the Society Islands of French Polynesia.
It is also called devil’s vine or devil’s ivy because it is almost impossible to kill and it stays green even when kept in the dark.
As an evergreen vine, it grows up to 20 m (66 ft) tall, with stems up to 4 cm (2 in) in diameter, climbing using aerial roots which adhere to surfaces.
The leaves are alternate, heart-shaped, entirely on juvenile plants, but irregularly pinnatifid on mature plants, up to 100 cm (39 in) long and 45 cm (18 in).
Furthermore, it is toxic to pets such as cats and dogs as a result of the presence of insoluble raphides. So, you need to take serious precautions on how to handle the plant and keep it away from your pets.
Also, due to the calcium oxalate within the plant, it is mildly toxic to humans. However, while caring for the plant, I recommend that you constantly wear a glove to avoid irritations.
Epipremnum Aureum Care Tips
Care for this plant by providing these essential needs such as
A. Light Requirements
Thrives when placed in bright indirect sunlight though it tolerates an intense luminosity.
However, avoid exposing your plant to direct sunlight for a long period as it will cause the leaves of your plant to burn or get scorched.
B. Water Requirements
The plant requires adequate watering especially when the soil feels dry to touch. This must be done once every one to two weeks.
During the summer and spring seasons, water the plant once in 4-5 days in warm water at room temperature. While in winter, it mustn’t exceed one in 7-8 days.
C. Soil Mix
Grow your plant in a peat moss-based potting mix. However, you can prepare your homemade soil mix by taking 1 part of sod land, 1 part of coarse-grained sand or perlite, and 3 parts of leaf land. Either 1 part sod, 1 part humus, 1 part peat land, 1/2 sand. Mix it in a drainage hole pot and start growing.
D. Temperature & Humidity
The average room temperature for your plant in summer must be 64,4-75,2 ° F. While in winter, it is better to keep the temperature at least 55,4-60,8 ° F.
It is preferable to maintain a humidity of about 60% and above. This will ensure the optimal growth of the plant.
In the summer it is better to spray at least 3 times a week or every day. In winter, you should keep your plant away from radiators.
E. Fertilizer
In spring and summer, you need to feed your plant once a month, with liquid fertilizer which is half the concentration.
During the winter season, stop fertilizer as the growth is slow and no active growth.
F. Propagation
propagate your plant through stem cutting every year.
G. Common Problems Of Epipremnum Aureum
Below are the common problems of this plant. They include
A. Pests
It is affected by spider mites, scabs, aphids, and mealybugs. It will cause the leaves of your plant to turn yellow.
To get rid of these pests, you should splash them with water, pick them up by hand or you can apply Insecticidal soap or neem oil on the affected areas.
B. Brown spots
On the leaves appear brown spots, and the tips are curled in too-dry air. Brown spots and black edges can sometimes indicate that the plant is cold and wet.
To remedy the problem, you should reduce the amount of water in your plant and keep away from AC vents or drafts. Ensure that the average room temperature and humidity are stable.
5. Echeveria Plant
Also known as Echeveria spp. Native to parts of Central America, South America, and Mexico, echeveria are succulents and members of the Crassulaceae family.
Echeverias are fast-growing succulents that are popular for their unique appearance and most especially, low maintenance.
Echeveria Plant Care Tips
Below are the low maintenance needs of this plant. They include
A. Light Requirements
The plant thrives in bright indirect sunlight. It needs at least four to five hours of bright, direct sunlight daily. However, if echeverias do not receive full sun, they will become elongated and leggy and will result in no flowering.
B. Soil Mix
The plant requires to be planted in a well-draining, porous growing medium with a pH of 6.0 or slightly acidic.
However, you can create your mix by combining three parts of regular potting soil with an additional two parts of coarse sand and one part of perlite.
C. Water Requirements
Echeverias, like most succulents, do not require much water, but they also don’t like to be too dry. If the leaves begin to wrinkle, it’s an obvious sign the plant needs water. However, it is better to under-water echeverias than to overwater them, as they can quickly succumb to root rot if overwatered.
Depending on the size of the plant, you could have 1/2 cup to 1 cup of water every seven to 10 days during the growing season in fall and spring.
In winter, water is just enough to prevent wrinkled leaves, about once a month.
D. Temperature & Humidity
It thrives in hot, dry conditions. Keep us away from cold temperatures or cold drafts.
However, excess humidity can lead to root rot. Also, you should avoid placing the plants in a bathroom or even laundry.
E. Fertilizer
Occasionally fertilize your plant during the spring and summer as it will help your plant in its growth process.
You can use a cactus and succulent fertilizer or a controlled-release balanced 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer diluted two to four times more than usual. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer for young plants.
F. Pruning
As the plant doesn’t like regular pruning, but still, it is necessary. It is best done at the beginning of their growing season.
Remove the dead leaves by gently pulling the dead leaves away with your fingers so they do not rot in place. Removing the leaves may also help encourage new growth along the stem.
G. Propagation
The best suitable propagation method is stem cutting which must be done in the spring.
To propagate by stem cutting, follow these steps
A. Get a tray, cactus mix, a plastic bag or clear dome, and a pot with ample drainage holes. If cutting a stem, you will need sterilized scissors or pruning snips.
B. Carefully separate a leaf from the plant’s main stem by gently wiggling it side to side until it pops off. Always propagate more than one leaf, as not all will grow into a new plant.
C. If taking a stem cutting, snip off a stem that has become leggy. If using an offset or offshoot (pup) growing off the main stem, carefully snip it or pinch it off the main branch.
D. Lay the leaf-cutting, stem-cutting, or offset flat on a tray and allow it to be callous over for a few days before planting the calloused end in the pot filled with succulent or cacti mix.
E. Mist the soil, and cover the pot until the new plant sprouts. Place it in a sunny location but avoid direct sunlight.
F. Once roots have developed (you will see new growth), water sparingly as you would with a mature succulent.
G. After about a month, a tiny rosette will begin to develop at the end of the leaf. Do not separate the leaf from the rosette, as it supplies the new succulent with energy and nutrients. Over time, the old leaf will shrivel and die as the new succulent becomes more independent.
H. Repotting
If repotting, it is usually recommended in the spring as the plant will enter its active growing period.
However, to repot, you must ensure the soil is completely dry before removing it from its potting container.
Gently remove the plant from the pot. Carefully remove the excess soil from the roots before placing the plant in its new pot.
Remove any rotted or dead roots in the process and place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading out the roots as you repot.
Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Wait a week before watering after repotting to avoid the risk of root rot.
I. Common Problems Of Echeveria Plant
Below are the common problems of this plant. It includes
A. Pests
Pests rarely seek out echeveria, but most succulents are susceptible to fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealy bugs.
Using insecticide soaps and neem oil can get rid of these insect infestations.
B. Diseases
When succulents fall victim to diseases, fungal issues usually take them out. Cold or damp conditions or overwatering are usually to blame, causing rot.
Rotten tissues turn red, brown, or black and usually turn soggy, slimy, and smell bad. You will need to restructure your watering routine, reducing quantity or frequency.
To treat the rot, remove the plant from its pot, wash the roots thoroughly, and cut away dead roots.
Allow the plant to air for 24 hours and repot it in a new or sterilized pot with fresh soil. Give the plant a fungicidal soil treatment according to the package instructions.
6. Easter Cactus
The Easter cactus is a perfect choice if you want to add a little colour to your home or garden, especially around the Easter holiday when this tropical cactus is known for its gorgeous and prolific star-shaped blooms.
This plant is native to Brazilian rainforests and has flowers that range from white to red to purple. Known as a long-lived, easy-to-grow plant, the Easter cactus is a popular choice among beginners and experienced houseplant lovers alike.
Easter Cactus Care Tips
Easter cactus needs care that differs from a typical desert cactus. These cares include
A. Light Requirements
It grows in locations where it is placed in bright indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight rays.
B. Soil Mix
As an epiphyte, Easter cacti do best in porous soil mixes that provide good airflow to their roots and are rich in organic matter.
A mix of coco coir, peat moss, perlite, and orchid bark is ideal. Regularly amending the soil with compost or other organic fertilizers will help to keep the soil rich in nutrients.
C. Water Requirements
Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly until the water begins to drain out of the bottom.
The Easter cactus does not tolerate having its roots waterlogged so ensuring that the pot has proper drainage is important. Do not let any water sit in the saucer after watering. Cut back on watering during the late fall to early winter to help encourage blooming.
D. Temperature & Humidity
Easter cactus thrives in cooler temperatures. They require cold temperatures to bloom.
The Easter cactus will bloom in nighttime temperatures between 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While Easter cacti enjoy humid environments, they do well in typical household humidity levels.
However, if your home is especially dry it’s a good idea to provide extra humidity with a humidifier or a pebble tray.
E. Fertilizer
Easter cacti are considered high feeders and do well with regular fertilization. About two months after the plant has finished blooming, apply a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, once a month until you need to prepare it for its bloom phase.
Amending the soil with compost or other organic fertilizers yearly will also help to keep the soil nutrient-rich.
Read also: How To Get Rid Of Brown Spots On Cactus
F. Propagation
You can grow Easter cactus from seeds or cuttings. Harvesting seeds can be challenging because you have to pollinate the plant, harvest seeds, and keep your patience while waiting to see if the seeds thrive. For this reason, it’s more popular, and much easier, to propagate Easter cactus with cuttings. Propagating is best done two to three months after the blooming period. Take these simple steps:
A. Gently twist a leaf off at the leaf terminal, being careful not to break the base.
B. Once separated, stick the bottom of the leaves back into a small cup or pot of soil making sure at least half of the leaf is in the dirt.
C. Lightly mist the leaves.
D. Place plastic bags over the cuttings to keep in the moisture.
E. Wait to water the leaves until roots begin to sprout in a few weeks and then repot.
F. Water as you would with a mature Easter cactus.
G. Repotting
Easter cacti enjoy being snug and pot-bound and only need to be repotted every two years to refresh the soil. If there is still room in the current pot, don’t increase the pot size and just plant it back in the same container.
However, if you need to size up a pot, choosing a pot that is 2 to 3 inches wider than the previous pot is ideal. Clay pots are best to help with aeration and drainage. Repotting is best done in the spring after the blooming period.
H. Common Problems Of Easter Cactus
Below are the common problems of this plant.
A. Pests
Common indoor plant pests such as mealybugs, scale, spider mites, and fungus gnats can be a problem for Easter cacti.
Root rot can also be an issue but is usually a result of overwatering or improper soil mixes being used.
7. Early Girl Tomatoes
This popular type of indeterminate tomato is a very fast grower and produces a harvest of round, tennis ball-sized deep red tomatoes very early in the growing season.
This plant produces a lot of fruit, but it can be softer or less crisp than other tomato varieties. On top of producing fruit early in the year, the Early Girl tomato continues to grow longer than other varieties and is sometimes even planted in the fall to create one last quick harvest before the growing season is gone.
Early Girl Tomatoes Care Tips
Raising tomato plants may seem intimidating, but the Early Girl tomato is very easy to care for.
A. Light Requirements
The Early Girl tomato thrives on lots of sunshine. Place this plant in an area where it can receive full sun for healthy flowering and fruit production.
B. Soil Mix
Rich, nutrient-dense soil is very important for the health and production of the Early Girl tomato plant. Because these tomatoes are such fast growers, they require nutrient-dense soil to support their rapid growth. Adding organic material, such as compost, will ensure that the soil is full of the needed nutrients.
C. Water Requirements
These tomatoes have medium to low watering requirements. They are a great choice for dry-land farming or gardening with a lower amount of water to produce highly flavorful fruit.
When watering, be sure to water near the soil to avoid getting the leaves and stems wet. This will help prevent fungus and rot.
Check the soil to gauge when the plant needs to be watered. Water when the soil is slightly moist or dry. Container-grown tomatoes will need more frequent watering than those in the ground.
D. Temperature & Humidity
Moderate temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal, but the Early Girl tomato can tolerate higher temperatures. Moderate humidity is preferred, as overly moist conditions can cause issues with rot or fungus.
E. Fertilizer
Fertilizing is very important for container-grown tomatoes. Some fertilizers are specifically designed for this type of application and make an ideal choice for supplying all the needed nutrients.
Ground-grown tomatoes may not need fertilizer if you have provided organically rich soil. If they require a boost, try giving fertilizer designed for fruiting plants.
F. Propagation
Pruned suckers can be propagated through these steps
A. Using sharp snips, cut off a sucker.
B. Remove the lower leaves.
C. Place the cut end either in a jar of water or a small pot of rich potting soil. Water soil-planted cuttings regularly.
D. Keep your cutting in bright, indirect light to allow time to root and adjust to the sun. As the cutting takes root and becomes accustomed to full sun, you can transplant it to the ground or a container for outside growing.
G. Repotting
Large pots with a diameter of 18 inches or more will allow enough room for this tomato’s rapid growth. Drainage holes will help prevent too much moisture from collecting in the pot.
Use high-quality, nutrient-rich potting soil and fertilize as needed. Because potted plants need more water than those in the ground, you may need to water these tomatoes daily. Provide a stake, trellis, or cage for the tomatoes to climb on.
8. Canadian Hemlock Tree
Canadian or eastern hemlocks are among the most common, native evergreen trees growing in the forests of eastern North America. They grow up to 70 feet tall and appear pyramidal or conical.
Their tiny, fragrant two-toned green needles give them a fine texture. Their needles are linear but form a spiral. Crushing the needles releases their aroma. They make small oval-shaped seed-containing cones just under an inch long, hanging from twig tips.
Canadian hemlock wood is a softwood commonly used for making boxes, pallets, plywood, and framing for construction. Canadian hemlock is not toxic to humans and pets.
Canadian Hemlock Tree Care Tips
The key to successful Canadian hemlock care is to provide acidic soil with ample moisture and also, it is a plant that can’t tolerate drought.
A. Light Requirements
Unlike many large trees, Canadian hemlocks grow best in full to part shade and will tolerate full sun in cold northern climates. Their sunlight requirements provide flexibility in a cold climate.
B. Soil Mix
These trees require soil that is moist but has good drainage. They prefer loamy, acidic soil.
C. Water Requirements
Hemlock trees require a fair amount of water. They can tolerate less favourable conditions of the partial sun in average soils of alkaline pH if sufficient supplemental water is given during the dry periods of summer, but the soil must be well-drained. This tree does not tolerate standing wet soil for prolonged periods of drought.
The best method of watering is slow watering once a week. Firstly, start the watering process with a general spray of the trunk and leaves. This will help to wash away insects and pollution residues.
Then, place the garden hose at the base of the tree and allow it to run for 15 to 20 minutes. This will go a long way in distributing the water evenly to the root system effectively.
D. Temperature & Humidity
This tree grows in regions with cool, humid climates. In the northern areas, January temperatures average 10° degrees Fahrenheit and July temperatures average 60° degrees Fahrenheit. Precipitation ranges from less than 30 inches.
E. Fertilizer
This tree needs a well-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) about once a year. For the amount to use, follow product label instructions.
Do not add fertilizer to your hemlock right after transplanting because it can burn the root system and lead to the tree’s death. Wait a few months until the tree is established.
F. Propagation
Canadian hemlock cuttings can be taken from semi-hardwood branches for propagation in late summer.
A. Cut the new part of a branch that grew in the current season. The branch should be green at the tip but browning toward the base of the node. Make a clean cut (no tearing or breaking of the branch).
B. To encourage successful rooting, dip the base of the cutting entirely in a rooting hormone powder used for woody shrubs and trees.
C. Place the cutting in a pot filled with a well-drained potting mix. Push the base of the cutting into the soil about 2 inches deep.
D. Place the pot in a partially shaded spot in a greenhouse or inside the house near a window for the winter.
E. Keep the soil moist but not soaking.
F. Water the soil when the surface is dry to the touch.
G. Transplant the cutting in the late spring to a planting bed suitable for sowing hemlock seeds.
G. Common Problems Of Canadian Hemlock Tree
Canadian hemlocks have two major enemies which are the woolly adelgid insect and white-tailed deer.
A. Hemlock Wooly Adelgid Insects
It is an invasive, tiny sap-sucking insect that’s a relative of the aphid. It has become a threat to the hemlocks in their native areas of eastern North America and home landscapes.
Infested trees have white woolly masses at the base of the needles on the undersides of the twigs.
To get rid of this insect, you can spray a pesticide on the affected areas or you can uproot the parts that are affected to make room for newer plant growth.
You can try neem oil or any horticultural oil in the area.
B. White-Tailed Deer
Canadian Hemlocks can also be damaged or destroyed by browsing deer.
If you have a heavy deer population among your plant, then choose an alternative tree or shrub that has better deer resistance and grows.
Conclusion
We hope that this article was helpful and productive in narrowing your search for highly recommended houseplants for your home.
However, if you have given a trial to any of these houseplants, we will be glad to get feedback from you on your experiences. For further enlightenment, do well to reach across to you via the comment section below.
